Boston's Durgin Park Restaurant (1874-2019)

For over 150 years, Durgin Park served the appetites of workers in Boston’s Faneuil Hall Market district, eventually attracting businessmen, students, celebrities, and tourists worldwide. Although the restaurant’s origins reached back to Revolutionary‑era Boston, its reputation for seafood, broiled meats, boiled dinners, and Indian pudding didn’t begin until 1874. That's when John Durgin and Eldridge Park joined their father-in-law, John G. Chandler, a wealthy merchant, in operating the business.

In keeping with its long history, Durgin Park maintained traditions that contributed to its unique dining experience. Guests were seated at long communal tables covered with oilcloth. Some customers found sitting with strangers uncomfortable at first, but most warmed to the arrangement once they became acquainted with their tablemates. The waitstaff—mostly older women—were encouraged to adopt a confrontational attitude with the clientele and engage them in good‑natured banter.

Another tradition was the Indian pudding, which the staff strongly suggested everyone try. This dessert was made from cornmeal, molasses, milk, and eggs, then baked for up to six hours and served with a scoop of ice cream. Some customers complained that it wasn’t sweet enough and that its flavor was too bland. Still, you couldn’t say you had eaten at Durgin Park unless you had at least tried the Indian pudding.

In 1976, the old buildings in the North Market were redeveloped and rebranded Faneuil Hall Marketplace. The restaurant remained in place but was assigned a new address: 340 Faneuil Hall Marketplace. The new sign above the entrance featured eight‑inch gold block letters reading, ESTABLISHED BEFORE YOU WERE BORN. Inside, printed material declared, Your Grandfather and perhaps your Great‑Grandfather dined with us too!

For me, both statements above were true. Over the years, I visited Durgin Park many times, first with my mother and father, and later with Betty. I remember my father telling me that his father had also eaten there. That made me the third generation to dine at Durgin Park. Then, in 2012, my son Marc and his son Mason visited, making them the fourth and fifth generations to continue the tradition.

  I hoped Mason might carry it on, but alas, it was not to be. On January 3, 2019, the owners of Arc Restaurants announced that Durgin Park would close due to dwindling profitability. On January 12, 2019, the restaurant closed permanently. It will be missed by many.

There is a website for a new seafood restaurant also called Durgin Park at the old address, but it seems to be having trouble getting started. I called their number and was shuttled off to a list of suggested seafood restaurants.

In a related event, Betty and I were visiting Rome in 2003 when we came across a small restaurant, Caffè dello studente, not far from the Colosseum. Inside, we were shown to a table already occupied by another couple. We learned they were from Boston, and we shared our interests in the city.

At one point I said, “There’s a restaurant near Faneuil Hall…” but the gentleman interrupted me. 

He said, “Don’t say it. Durgin Park, right?”

With that, he handed me a business card identifying him as one of the owners of Durgin Park. He said, “Show them my card the next time you visit, and we will give you a complimentary dessert.” I still have his card somewhere.

It’s a small world.